Found and Restoring- Can anyone tell me anything about it?

Could anyone please tell me about my newest labor of love?

It has a dolphin motif- one on each side panel on top and the brass pulls are two dolphins joined.
(Anyone know where I might find a replacement? One of the pulls has a broken dolphin tail.)
I will post photos-and if anyone needs more or better shots I will gladly provide them.

Because I helped my Father restore some sorely neglected pieces in the past I know how magnificent they can be with some love and elbow grease and this is why when I saw this piece I fell in love.  I do not know what it is called or which era it may hail from and would dearly love any information even if it is guesswork.   I do not even know what it is officially called- though Credenza has been suggested.

I will be posting regarding the best way to repair the lower right door which is warped.  I am also seeking a replacement spindle for the same side bottom.  It is not a perfect piece but I feel it is well worth the effort of repair to try to bring it back to it's former glory.  I feel it deserves it.

Here are some additional images that may help:

(The sticker is on the inside shelf bottom. I doubt a moving sticker will help but thought I should post it anyway)

Hey Dancingdog

Personally I think it looks fine as is. If it was mine, the most I would do is use some restore a finish on it.
I have good results with this product. It's always desirable to keep the original finish when possible and your piece looks like it's in wonderful condition. If you go this route, try it on a small area that is not easy to see so you can see what results you get.

Here's a link:

http://www.howardproducts.com/restora.htm

Hi Zeke,

  Thanks so much for the link.  I will try it!  My goal is not to remove the original finish at all and I think this product will give a bit of new life to the old finish.

  The biggest issue is the warping bottom right door. I am researching what to do regarding that while still preserving the piece.

Thanks!

DancingDog, I am a cabinetmaker and restore antiques (Custom Woodworking & Restorations - 26 yrs exp). Your door is twisted - not warped (a curve - cup or bow is considered warp - what you have is twist.) & it looks pretty significant. Here are a couple possible ways to solve the twist problem - there may be others too - but this is how I approach it. 1st remove the door and the hinges from the door. Try this first - it's the easiest and non invasive - requires only 2 clamps and a few blocks of wood, although it may not be enough for your twist (because of the severity of it - but you've got nothing to lose). Try to clamp the opposite twist into it than it has right now (you have to severely overcompensate because it will have a memory and want to springback to it's original twist) - clamping it only flat will absolutely not solve the twist problem it will spring back.
Do as follows: Plan A: Lay it on a table or bench back side down (I'm assuming the back is flat - w/ no moldings, frame and panel with a recessed panel). It will teeter (rock back and forth) on 2 corners - put blocks under the (2) opposite/ diagonal corners that are touching the bench. You'll have to experiment to see how thick the blocks need to be. You want to twist the door in the opposite direction as much as you dare without cracking or breaking any wood or joints. Do as follows - start w/ 2 blocks 1/2" or 3/4" thick - push down by hand (slowly - but steady/ evenly to make the other 2 corners touch the bench (the corners that don't have blocks under them should touch the bench - if you hear a cracking or a breaking sound STOP PUSHING - it means too much stress, you need thinner blocks elevating the corners.)
If they touch easily and there doesn't seem like much tension - you need thicker blocks. Try thicker and thicker blocks or multiple layers until you don't dare make it any thicker or put more tension on it - it should have a lot of tension - severely overcompensating for the twist. Then use (2) clamps (with blocks of wood under them to protect the face of the door from damage by the clamps) to clamp down the (2) high corners tight to the bench and leave it like that for at least several days - a week is even better . Unclamp it and see if it is fairly flat or if it has improved much. If it has improved, but you need more - try it again - you may be able to use thicker blocks now if some of the twist has sprung out - if nothing significant has happened then go to plan B.
Here is plan B: (requires more work, tools and skill) if the back of the door is a frame and panel w/ a recessed panel then run the door through a table saw (a thin kerf blade is preferred if available) - cutting through the top & bottom rails just barely inside the outer stiles (outer vertical pieces) but don't cut into the panel - or completely through the rails (so the cut will not show on the front face) - raise the blade only enough to cut it and stop w/o cutting into the panel (or have someone else do it if you don't have a table saw or it is beyond your ability). This will relieve much of the stress in the door and it will press down flat much easier. Now make a thin strip of wood the same kind as the door if possible and shape it to fill the saw kerf just made ( a little proud of the door to be trimmed flush later) - a looser fit to allow the joint to flex a little ( not sloppy or a tight fit). Next clamp the door flat on a bench if there is virtually no tension in it - or overcompensate a little bit (use maybe 1/4" thick blocks to elevate the same 2 corners and slightly twist the door in the opposite direction as was tried in plan A above). While still clamped down to the bench drill (2) 1/4" holes through the edges of the door stiles into the rails & fillers ( go 1 1/2 - 2" past the joint of the rail and stile - use a piece of tape on the drill bit as a flag to know when to stop drilling) - stay a little away from the edges with the holes. Do this to all 4 corners (you'll have to unclamp the door, rotate it and reclamp it for the inside edge). Use a 12" long drill bit - available at most good hardware stores and a long piece of wood laid on the door & lined up with the hole you're drilling that overhangs the edge to sight it with & keep the drill bit parallel/ straight to it. Blow the dust out of the holes. Then cut eight pieces of 1/4 "  steel threaded rod w/ a hacksaw (available at most hardware stores) about 1/4" short of the hole depth. While clamped flat or slightly twisted in the opposite direction (if there is still tension on it) glue the threaded rod and fillers in with epoxy (2 ton - not 5 minute - it's much stronger). Epoxy will bond the steel rod to the wood and it has good gap filling ability and will make a very strong joint (reinforced by the steel rod). A word of caution - don't use too much epoxy it is very strong and won't need to be oozing out everywhere to make a good strong joint. Epoxy is thick, messy and it only cleans off or up with lacquer thinner when wet (which will also dissolve most finishes) - water has no impact on it whatsoever - in fact it is also a waterproof glue - often used in boatbuilding. Mask off areas you want to protect from getting it on (with an easy release tape - lift off while still wet so the tape is not glued in place), and or use a liberal application of paste wax which will inhibit it from sticking where it is not wanted ( the paste wax can be cleaned off later with a mild solvent like Goo Gone, Goof Off or mineral spirits - try it in an inconspicuous place to make sure it doesn't affect the finish - it shouldn't) - but don't get any paste wax in the holes or on the steel rod that you are trying to glue (or you won't get a good strong bond). Epoxy has a slow set time - allow it to remain clamped up overnight - at least 12 hrs. Then unclamp, plug the holes w/ 1/4" plugs made from the same wood as the doors, trim up the fillers and plugs and shape to match the door. Stain & finish the plugs and fillers to match the door. Your door should be flat and remain flat - you shouldn't see any repairs from the good face, only a few plugs on the edges that blend with the door if done well. Good luck. woodwright.

Woodwright,

Thank you so much-  I will put your advice into effect right away starting with your first suggestion.  I appreciate your detailed response greatly.

Stella

Update and Thank you:

  After using the first method suggested by Woodwright above for 2 weeks each both of the bottom doors are now straight.

My deepest thanks to you Woodwright!  Before your post I had thought my only option was to take the doors apart and re-glue them.

I'm glad to hear it worked for you and it solved your problem. Thanks for letting us know it worked. It's a simple solution to a complex problem  - it's pretty easy to do and non invasive.
If they are not quite perfect (out by 1/8" or more on any corner) you can remove the hinge screws diagonally opposite to the high corner, fill the screw holes w/ a dowel (sometimes one sharpened in a pencil sharpener works well) and move that hinge out slightly - splitting the difference. ie: Instead of having one corner that sticks out 1/8" or more - move the diagonally opposite hinge out about 1/16 ". Then 2 corners will be out by 1/16", but it doesn't look as bad, and is much less noticeable than having one out by a significant amount.    woodwright

Thank you again!

  I will put it to action next.

If you can't find a replacement for your drawer pulls, I know someone who can make a quality copy of your original
That's IF he's willing to work with brass ....
If not, he can tell you who can

Get in touch with Kirk Mc Laren: [email removed]
http://www.amuletsbymerlin.com/

Thanks for the link!  He certainly looks talented enough to do the job- if he wishes to take it on!

P.E. Guerin will reproduce pieces for you, too:
http://www.peguerin.com/custom.php

You can also do a search for "Custom Brass Casting" to find others that can reproduce your pull. Or check with your local foundries or custom jewerly makers to possibly find someone local/ close to you.

Heres another company that does custom work for cast brass. They do "lost wax" casting, an ancient form that gives a very authentic look.
http://www.londonderry-brasses.com/index.html

Thank you all for the great info.  Karma to all (not sure what that means but it must be good!)
  I appreciate this information a lot.  That missing tail on the pull really bothers me.